HOW TO INSTALL YOUR MUZZLE BRAKE / LINEAR COMPENSATOR / FAKE SUPPRESSOR CAN / GLOCK COMP / 1911 COMP
One of the most asked questions we get is, “how do I install my muzzle brake/can/compensator?” One of the number one complaints we get is, “my muzzle brake is defective it won’t time itself correctly.” We’ve come to realize that the problem isn’t the part itself, but not knowing the proper steps to properly clock and time your muzzle brake to your barrel. There’s a right way of installing your muzzle brake, and some awesome tips we’d like to share with you guys so you can successfully time your brake at home without having to take it to a gunsmith for such a simple install.
You will need:
-A sturdy workbench
-A vise attached to your workbench
-A clamshell block, some kind of AR15 upper receiver vise block or vise block for your particular rifle receiver you’re working on
-A strap wrench or a long screw driver or similar thin steel rod or an open end adjustable wrench
-A few strips of electrical tape (optional but recommended)
First thing you’ll be doing is securing your receiver to your vise block, and into the vise. You will then remove whatever is currently on your barrel. You will next place your included crush washer onto the barrel, concaved inner bowl side faces outward, flat outer bowl side faces the barrel shoulder. Do NOT use loctite on your threads, ever! You will thank me later when in the future you want to change your muzzle brake or simply need to remove it to change out parts on your AR15 or similar rifle. Next you will tighten your muzzle brake by hand until it stops. This is the step where most folks stop, and then email us to either ask us how to install their muzzle brake, or to tell us their muzzle brake is defective because it didn’t align itself properly. Thing is, muzzle brakes do not align themselves, they will need to be torqued into position. Most folks stop here because they are afraid they’ll break something. Fear not! So long as your receiver is secured properly, there is no reason to be afraid, torque away! Once hand tightened, you will:
For a muzzle brake / linear compensator:
You will finish torqueing the rest of the way using an adjustable open end wrench on the wrench flats. If the brake does not have wrench flats, then you use a screw driver (or similar). Attach a few strips of electrical tape down the middle of the rod, this is to prevent scratching or dinging the brake. Insert it through the side middle baffle, use that as leverage to torque your brake. Align the small top ports to the 12 o clock position. Do not exceed more than a full turn. If no top ports, such as a linear compensator, then just tighten about 1/4 turn and you’re good to go. Do not exceed more than a full rotation, as you will flatten the washer and break it or flatten it and it’ll be a real pain to remove in the future.
For a fake suppressor can:
You will finish torqueing the rest of the way using a strap wrench. Again, do not exceed a full turn, you’re only trying to align it so that the print on the fake suppressor can is facing to the right of the rifle and the print is upright and not upside down. That’s it. These are extremely easy to install.
Purchased threaded jam nuts:
If you purchased threaded jam nuts to use as an upgrade over the crush washer, then you will not need a strap wrench or a screw driver, you may not even need a vise and work bench. All you will need is a thin adjustable wrench. I know I’ve personally done some of these installs with a jam nut, the lazy way; by holding my AR15 rifle in between my legs as I tighten the jam nut with a small open end wrench. You’ll want to first thread on the jam nut all the way until it stops. Next you’ll want to thread on your muzzle brake or fake suppressor all the way until it stops. Then you’ll want to back off on the muzzle brake or fake suppressor just enough to get it aligned where it needs to be, top ports facing up 12 o clock, and for a fake suppressor, print facing to the right side of the rifle. If facing to the left, it’d be upside down. That’s it!
Installs easily using 4 included set screws with a 1.5mm hex bit. You can use 1.5mm allen keys, but it is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED you use 1.5mm bits instead as they taper and thicken at the base. This allows you to really tighten down the set screw without stripping the head on those tiny set screws due to the tapered thicker base. Simply hand tighten the compensator onto the barrel until it stops, then back off as needed until you get it aligned top side facing up. Now secure the 4 set screws in place and you’re good to go.
Your barrel does not need to be threaded for this 1911 compensator. Installs easily by depressing the 1911 spring cap, removing the 1911 bushing, and replacing it with your 1911 compensator. If you feel your compensator is a tight fit and won’t lock into position, you can give it a little tap with a rubber mallet to position it into place and lock into position. Due to the tight tolerances in machining, depending on the type of variant of 1911 you have, a little tap from a rubber mallet may or may not be required.
CX3 TACTICAL TEAM